The creation of jewelry was perhaps the purest expression of the worldwide Art Nouveau movement. Avant-garde artists, such as René Lalique (France), Philippe Wolfers (Belgium), and Louis Comfort Tiffany (United States), rejected the traditional role of jewelry as mere adornment and signifier of wealth, imbuing it with symbolism, inspired by nature, charged with emotion. Rather than use gemstones for their commercial status, these mavericks chose to paint in color, glorifying “semi-precious” stones such as moonstone, opal and non-traditional materials such as carved horn and polychrome enamel. Women were portrayed as goddesses, nymphs, and dragonflies; flowers achieved the status of icons; and the asymmetrical "tensile line" embodied the dynamism of a new world still being formed in this novel aesthetic genre of jewelry.
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French Art Nouveau 18K Gold and Plique-à-jour Enamel Longchain Necklace
$12,500| /Created around the turn of the 19th century, this longchain necklace is composed of 18K gold and plique-à-jour enamel. It is composed of tracelink ...
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Male and Female Gold Portrait Cuff Links
$4,500| /This airy and romantic pair of double-sided American Art Nouveau gold cuff links depict a stylishly bohemian man and woman. Framed by their swirlin...
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René Lalique "Thistle of Lorraine" Bracelet
Created by René Lalique around 1901-1903, this plique-à-jour and basse-taille enamel, opal and freshwater pearl thistle of Lorraine bracelet is set...
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Jules Chéret Art Nouveau 18K Gold and Rose-cut Diamond Brooch
$7,500| /Designed by Jules Chéret, created circa 1900, this 18K gold brooch depicting a young woman is set with rose-cut diamonds. The brooch is designed in...
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René Lalique "Four Dragonflies" Pendant Necklace
Created by René Lalique in 1903-1904, this four dragonfly pendant necklace is composed of plique-à-jour and basse taille enamel, aquamarine, diamon...
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Edwardian Diamond Ring
$32,000| /Dating from circa 1910, this platinum-topped gold ring is set with over 3.50 carats of old diamonds. The ring centers an old European-cut diamond, ...
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Boulder Opal and Multi-Color Garnet Necklace
$40,000| /This three-tiered antique gold necklace is both elegant and original, with multiple chains and swags that make up a draping fringe, suspending a ra...
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André Rambour "Femme-Fleur" Enamel Gold Pendant Necklace
$22,500| /A regular exhibitor at the Paris Salons, Maison André Rambour was well-known for figural jewels of women and flowers, such as this "Femme-Fleur" pe...
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Tiffany & Co. Gold and Diamond Cuff Links
$9,500| /This superlative pair of antique Tiffany & Co. cuff links in gold with diamonds adds an American Art Nouveau flourish to a French cuff. The sub...
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Plique-à-Jour Enamel “Juliet” Pendant Necklace
$19,500| /This lovely French Art Nouveau plique-à-jour pendant necklace depicts a gold version of Shakespeare's Juliet at the moment when Romeo, lingering in...
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Chased Gold and Diamond Cuff Links
$2,250| /These French gold cuff links with diamond accents date from the Art Nouveau period. Each cuff link is designed as a chased and engraved sinuous vin...
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A French Ruby and Diamond Ring
$6,500| /This French ruby and diamond ring in platinum-topped 18K gold dates from circa 1910. The slender form centers a ruby surrounded by swirling gold vi...
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Ruby and Diamond Gold Infinity Cuff Links
$3,750| /These Art Nouveau double cuff links by a Russian jeweler are designed as stylized infinity links set with diamond and ruby mêlée, joined by a line ...
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Edouard de Martilly Paris Sapphire and Enamel Lotus Flower Ring
$15,000| /Created during the Art Nouveau period in Paris, this sapphire and enamel ring is mounted in 18K gold. The elongated bombé form ring centers a line ...
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Gold Fancy Link Long Chain Necklace
$11,000| /Composed of gold, this French Art Nouveau long chain necklace was created around 1900. The fancy elongated links each contain an interlocking serie...
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Marcus & Co. Double Peridot and Diamond Ring
$19,500| /This distinctive two-stone peridot ring epitomizes Marcus & Co.’s liberal interpretation of Renaissance jewelry forms, fluidly merged with the ...
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René Lalique Plique-à-Jour Enamel "L'Anémone de Bois" Brooch
Designed, modeled and carved by René Lalique himself, this flora brooch, entitled "L'Anémone de Bois," is a work of genius showcasing Lalique's ear...
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René Lalique “Automne” Gold and Basse-Taille Enamel Pendant
This French Art Nouveau masterpiece, the "Automne" pendant, is one of the allegorical jewels that René Lalique created to celebrate the beauties of...
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Marcus & Co. Opal, Chrysoprase, and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch
$50,000| /This stunning brooch by Marcus & Co. is abstracted from the delicate shapes of flowers and leafy vines, creating a flowing Art Nouveau form. It...
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Marcus & Co. Black Opal and Enamel Pendant Necklace
$35,000| /Created around 1900, this Art Nouveau 18K gold, opal and enamel pendant necklace was made by Marcus & Co., New York, and its design is attribut...
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René Lalique Opal, Diamond and Enamel Hat Pin
Designed in the years 1895-1897, this floral and foliate hat pin composed of opal, diamonds and enamel was created by René Lalique, Paris. The pin ...
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René Lalique Art Nouveau 18K Gold, Enamel and Seed Pearl "Collier de chien" Necklace
Dating from circa 1898, this rose branch plaque "collier de chien" necklace by René Lalique is composed of 18K gold, basse taille enamel, and seed ...
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